Torres del Paine, Patagonia

Our Goal

In December 2023 to backpack the W in Torres del Paine National Park, Chile. The Patagonia region quickly caught our imagination in 2020 when we started getting into backpacking and setting our sights first on Yosemite and then more broadly. We originally planned to be going in 2022, but unfortunately an injury (in Yosemite?!) set us back on our plans.

Trip Planning

Patagonia is a bucket list trip for many backpackers world wide. Given it’s extreme location, technical nature, and cost, proper planning is important. We began our trip planning in earnest 1 year prior to our planed departure.

We started by asking ourselves questions about the trip. Ones we thought were important and ones we found during research. Below are the questions we’ve either asked and decided on or are currently researching.

When to visit Patagonia?

The main season for Patagonia is September to February. Since it’s located in the souther hemisphere and very far south at that, you’ll want to be sure to visit during Patagonia’s late Spring to early Fall.

The busiest month is December, but it’s also the surest time of the year to avoid poor weather.

We decided December was the best time for us to go, but more because that’s when our college aged kids will be free. Weather was important but given schedules December was the only time that will work for us.

Which trail? The O or the W?

Torres del Paine has two major trails you can take. The O circles the entire park and is a rigorous trail. The W does the southern portion of the O, with a leg North (that some O hikers take as well).

Key considerations we’re thinking through with decided on the O or W are:

Time — The O takes many backpackers 7-10 days. Whereas the W can be done in 3 to 5 days.

Technical Level — The O has a mountain pass you need to take that can get snow, even in December.

What you see — You’ll obviously more with the O, but the W hits many of the major highlights.

We decided that we’re going to do the W. Bryan really wanted to do the O, but given the time needed and the technical level of the O, we felt the W better fit our groups abilities.

How many days for the W?

We’re reading that expert hikers do the W in 3 days, the average is 4, and some chose to do it in 5 or 6.

We’re currently thinking we’ll do it in 5, but as we examine trail maps and see how our group does on longer trips next Summer and Fall we’ll make a decision if it’s 4 or 5. A lot of it depends on where we chose to stay overnight, given the limitations on camping spots.

Where to stay overnight?

Torres del Paine doesn’t allow you to setup your tent wherever you want. You’re required to use the dedicated tent platforms or stay at the refugios.

What’s a refugio, what do they offer, how much are they, and are they worth it?

We’re only just beginning to learn about these. But so far we’re seeing they’re hit and miss on what they offer and fairly pricey at $100/bed/person/night.

But, a dedicated place to stay out of the wind? Could be nice. We’re currently leaning towards the tent platforms.

How to get to Torres del Paine, Patagonia?

There appear to be a couple ways, the most known is through Santiago, Chile. Either way, once you get there you’ll need to take another flight closer and then a long bus ride.